JANUARY 27,2008
Blog -deficient once again but desperately attempting to put down in summary where we are and where we have been! It’s official we have been in Florida for one month. C-Drifters and ourselves spent 21 days at New River Marina in Ft Lauderdale while we made repairs, provisioned, added improvements to ready for trip across the Gulf Stream to Bahamas.
Had a very good Christmas and New Year’s and delighted with a visit from Patti and Ann from Thunder Bay who were here for holiday. Ann’s sister and brother-in-law and their daughter also came aboard and Patti’s family were in Miami. We all enjoyed adult beverages and 2 for 1 appetizers at nearby Down Towner Saloon just like the snowbirds looking for the happy hour deals!
During our time there we met up with many other cruisers doing the same. Not too many “ locals “ about as everyone is from all over the States and other countries in proximity. Look for a book by Elliot Tiber--- Talking Woodstock. A New Yorker and very humorous fellow whom we talked with everyday and apparently he was one of the major organizers of Woodstock! The movie is coming in late 2008!
We were on a cement wall and due to the tides were either at stepping out level or way down, jump level. A very busy, and at times, frantic place due to tour boats and tourists, being the Christmas season. Also right behind us was Broward County Jail which housed 2000 “ guests” according to the tour boats. Jan. 14th we left the hustle and bustle to head out for an anchorage in N. Biscayne Bay to await weather to cross.
We were able to anchor off the ICW in a cozy cove in North Miami which was bordered by the Oleta River State Park and the grounds of the Florida International University and a mangrove creek with a resident couple of huge iguanas and racoons. Here we increased our education even further re cruising in South Florida___ were acquainted with U.S. TOW due to a particularly shallow and extensive shoal. Once settled, a fellow Canadian from Quebec advised us on the rules. No landing on shore with the dinghy due to local statutes. Theft is prevalent so don’t leave your boat or dinghy unattended. If you go to the park you might be approached to pay a fee to get back in your dinghy and do not use park facilities. Needless to say we all took turns going to shore and one day I swam back to shore after I dropped everyone off and secured dinghy to sailboat! A pretty and convenient place with buses nearby but we felt a little captive and not all together welcome.
Pete had a filling pop out so we scoped a dentist out locally and he did a fine job of patching the tooth up. The Capt doesn’t have many molars left so he was anxious to keep the tooth!
It was here that we really started to learn the art of managing water supplies. 57 gallons in 7-8 days means minimal showering and general use. Our boat has 3 tanks holding 57 gal each. I can have a total wash, wash hair and shave legs in 6 cups of water. Tried salt water but it takes more fresh to rinse salt out. Water is 50cents or more a gal in the Bahamas.
So off to a marina to-day close to the inlet to the ocean near the Dania cut and do final preparations. We washed and cleaned inside of boat, did laundry, had celebratory margaritas and then some more margaritas ! We celebrated an anniversary ( first on paper!) with Irene and Ray at a really good British Pub and enjoyed steak and kidney pie and roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. Good-bye Florida. Bahamas Bound in a.m. At last.
Jan. 30th
Calm seas and gentle winds. Gulf Stream here we come! Entered stream midday and the water temp went up 4 degrees and the water colour changed to a beautiful indigo blue. Current increased by 3 knots. At 1700 we were approaching Bimini, destination Alice Town , the famed hang-out of Ernest Hemingway, Mr. Islands in the Stream. Cleared customs and we are all mesmerized by the clear, turquoise water where we are able to see huge fish, barracudas, manta rays swimming around! The channel in was tricky for us newcomers. We have to learn the nuances of the different shaded water. Picture me on the bow of the boat with my headphones on ( marriage savers) looking for the channel! I don’t know what the channel looks like. However starting to get a little savvy now. Pete and I went exploring that evening and had a good burger in the restaurant at the marina. Nice resort here, geared for sports fishermen. Unfortunately, Papa Hemingway’s fave bar and restaurant burned down last year and along with it all the photos and historical “ stuff ” was destroyed. Lovely village with friendly people. Tin of beans 1.85 at the wee store.
Because we weren’t 100 ft US yachts the marina wanted us off the docks so next a.m. we pushed on to Great Bahamas Bank which is a shelf that rises from ocean floor with shallow water depths and no land or anything in sight. We anchored in the dark in 12’ of water and were bounced around all night. On the way here that night we had a bit of an alarm. Earlier in the day I had been reading about pirates ! Pete saw a boat off our port side 4 miles. Our radar showed us on a converging course. He hailed the vessel repeatedly but no response and all the lights are not on. I didn’t figure it out till later but Capt was concerned re pirates or as our French Canadian friend, Jules, says, the PEERATS! We put our “in case of pirates” plan into action and glad to report, false alarm! C- Drifters came on radio alarmed that our lights were out and we had changed course and asked Capt. Where were we going? A pause and Pete replied,” I’d rather not say !“ Now we have a code to let each other know what we are playing at!
Chub Cay ( pronounced key) was our first anchorage where we put the anchor down and jumped into the water right away. Glorious turquoise blue and very salty but great swimming. Here we saw the small sharks in the shallow water on a deserted beach and lots of conch shells. Local fare is conch fritters, cracked conch, conch chowder, and conch salad. At Highbourne Cay we watched a young man make the salad up on a large cutting board, mixing it up with his hands!
From Chub to Nassau and what an experience! Superior Grace docked up at really nice marina on Paradise Island, Hurricane Hole. We were in walking distance of Atlantis Resort and if you ever get the chance to visit here you must see the Digs, an underwater Lost City aquarium with Iooo’s of reef fish and rays, moray eels, sharks. We returned 3 nights running to enjoy it.
The ferry crossed to Nassau regularly and we used it quite a lot as taxis were expensive. The colourful Straw Market and the colonial buildings and changing of the guard at the government building were just a few of the sites to see. Very enjoyable visit but eager to get going to the Exhumas. Also I was starting to get attached to marina dog, a stray who had no name and did the rounds of the island. Lovely soulful eyes and followed us around. He apparently kept all the strays from Nassau off the island!
Feb 7th
The Exhumas are islands considered islands in Central Bahamas and once again we are astounded by the beauty of the sea and the beaches and small communities that are few and far between. Gone is the touristy crowd and all that goes with that venue. Here there can be glorious and peaceful anchorages along with other cruisers or if one chooses by yourself.
First stop was Allan’s Cay, part of the Exhuma Park, famous for the native Iguanas! They are quite large and on arrival were all posing like statues on the beach. As soon as you land they come rushing towards you which gives you a start but they are looking for food and can mistake flapping hands for such! Got some good photos. I especially enjoyed when a fellow cruiser stalked up to a huge lad, saying that they were ok as long as you didn’t run. Pete yelled___ watch out ! as he turned his back and it was fun to see the guy jump and start to run! They are protected and are fine specimens. After awhile we ignored them and they left us alone.
We met the Much talked about Beach pigs at Staniel Cay and were amazed to see 3 large pigs(not wild) snuffling about on the beach! Imagine our wonder when we saw them swimming out to the dinghies coming to shore. There again they ran at us but just to come and be pet and of course fed! Here at anchor for a few days we explored the small cays . Pete tried his spear rod out , snorkelling and he’s working on it! This is where the film Thunderball was done and the grotto or cave is there for all to explore but only at low water.
Departed Big Major and arrived at Black Point Settlement on Great Guana Cay. This is a settlement of 300 persons. They provide for cruisers needs but it is very low key and the community is absolutely charming. Very warm and friendly people who greet us from their houses as we walk by. Children on bikes are zooming around and one little fellow we really took a shine to. We watched him dancing in the street and he was good! I asked him what he was dancing to and he said, Soldier Boy ! Do you know it lady? Rats, I didn’t but will have to look it up. We also enjoyed the school sports day and hope to send photos later. On Valentine's Day all the students were dressed in red as were most of the other people in the settlement. So don't forget to wear green on St. Paddy's Day and think of the people of Black Point !
Later Pete set off his load of fireworks ( stowed away) at the school games park. The principal gave her ok and the whole community was invited. Waited for dark and the kids really enjoyed the display. Some had never seen fireworks. While we were in the field waiting for dark we had a few of the boys hanging out with us, talking and laughing. All of a sudden there were 3 dogs racing towards us snarling and barking! The little guys yelled at them fiercely, waving their arms and the dogs fled. Then we were regaled with tales of the Wild Dogs of the island and other stories too. What a treat to have children around us. Our children have so much and how much do they appreciate? These kids have little but appreciate the extras when they get it.
So we are planning to help with some tutoring after school at the mission house where a couple from the States live for 6 months of the year. They used to be cruisers but loved it here so much decided to come to land and give back to the people here. They love children and invite everyone daily on our VHF radios to come and help with the tutoring.
Attended St Luke’s Baptist Union Church and was blown away with the service. The singing and rhythm of those gathered was fantastic! All women and children except for the Pastor and Ray and another fellow. Strong, dignified ladies who had such energy and joy in them. And dressed up in beautiful suits and hats and the dreaded panty hose ( imagine in the heat)!The sermon was very powerful and meaningful too. We were all welcomed and stood up and introduced ourselves and where we hailed from. I thought about the Blues Brothers and how they were overcome with the music they were surrounded by ___ had to hold myself back!
Pete enjoyed getting his hair cut by Ida who owns and runs the laundry store and cuts hair too! He sat on a chair looking out over the bay as she clipped away. A fine job she did too . Ray had his hair cut in Nassau but he was the first white guy, a.k.a. Straight hair that the barber had cut. He was asking Ray and Irene how to do it!
We really like it here. Lots of cruisers from all over who congregate in Laundromat, Lorraine’s restaurant and internet cafe or Scorpio’s bar to name a few places. Heading to Georgetown in a few days then will come back north to meet up with visitors who will be arriving Mar.1st and then Mar 24th. They will take puddle jumper to wherever we are from Nassau. Then we will probably leave the Exumas and cruise to the Abacos and Berry Islands. Plan to be back in Florida in mid May.
So with a cool beer in hand, feeling pretty salty, waiting for the cooler evening breezes I will sign off for now. Hope this hasn’t gone on and on too horrendously. Thanks for listening and take care one and all. Missing you all. As the Bahamians say , Come back, Come back ! Which is radio talk and means "to respond"! Love hearing from you. Sue and Pete on Superior Grace.
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